1. Develop Healthy Soil
Good soil is the foundation of a healthy lawn. To grow
well, your lawn needs soil with good texture, some key
nutrients, and the right pH, or acidity/alkalinity balance.Start
by checking the texture of your soil to see whether it's heavy with clay,
light and sandy, or somewhere in between.
Lawns grow best in soil with intermediate or "loamy" soils
that have a mix of clay, silt, and sand. Whatever
soil type you
have, you can probably improve it by periodically
adding organic matter like compost, manure, or
grass clippings.
Organic matter helps to lighten a predominantly
clay soil and it helps sandy soil retain water
and nutrients.
Also check to see if your soil is packed down from lots of
use or heavy clay content. This makes it harder for air and
water to penetrate, and for grass roots to grow. To loosen
compacted soil, some lawns may need to be aerated several times
a year. This process involves pulling out plugs of soil to
create air spaces, so water and nutrients can again penetrate
to the grass roots.
Most lawns
need to be fertilized every year, because they need more nitrogen,
phosphorus, and potassium than soils
usually contain. These three elements are the primary
ingredients found in most lawn fertilizers. It's
important not to over-fertilize--you could do more harm to
your lawn than
good--and it's best to use a slow-release fertilizer
that feeds the lawn slowly. It's also important to check the
soil's pH.
Grass is best able to absorb nutrients in a slightly
acidic soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0. Soil that is too acidic
can be "
sweetened" with lime; soil that's not acid enough can be
made more sour by adding sulfur.
Have your
soil tested periodically to see whether it needs more organic
matter or the pH needs adjusting. Your county
extension agent (listed in your phone book under
county government) or local nursery should be able to tell
you how to
do this. These experts can also help you choose the
right fertilizer, compost, and other "soil amendments," and
they can advise you about aerating if your soil is compacted.
If a
professional service takes care of your lawn, make
sure it takes these same steps to develop good soil. There's
no getting
around it: your lawn's health is only as good as
the soil it grows in.
2. Choose A Grass Type That Thrives In Your Climate
The right type of grass--one that suits your needs and
likes the local weather--will always give better results.
Grasses vary in the type of climate they prefer, the amount of
water and nutrients they need, their resistance to pests, their
tolerance for shade, and the degree of wear they can withstand.
If you are putting in a new lawn, it will be worth your
while to do some research to identify the best grass type for
your needs.
If you're working with an established lawn that fails to
thrive despite proper care, you might consider replanting with
a different type of grass.
Why struggle to grow grass that's susceptible to fungal
disease if you live in a humid climate? Or a water-loving
species if you live in an area with water shortages? Grass that
is well-adapted to your area will grow better and resist local
pests and diseases better.
New grass varieties and mixtures come out on the market
every year.
Ask your county extension agent or another one of the
sources listed in this brochure for recommendations.
3. Mow High, Often and With Sharp Blades
Mowing high--that is, keeping your lawn a bit long--will
produce stronger, healthier grass with fewer pest problems.
Longer grass has more leaf surface to take in sunlight.
This enables it to grow thicker and develop a deeper root
system, which in turn helps the grass survive drought, tolerate
insect damage, and fend off diseases. Longer grass also shades
the soil surface keeping it cooler, helping it retain moisture,
and making it difficult for weeds to germinate and grow.
A lawn's ideal length will vary with the type of grass,
but many turf grass species are healthiest when kept between
2-1/2 and 3-1/2 inches. The ruler at the back of this brochure
will help the best mowing height for your grass variety. You
may have to readjust your mower--most are set too low.
It's also important to mow with sharp blades to prevent
tearing and injuring the grass. And it's best to mow often,
because grass adjusts better to frequent than infrequent
mowing. The rule of thumb is to mow often enough that you never
cut more than one-third of the height of the grass blades. Save
some time and help your lawn and the environment by leaving
short clippings on the grass--where they recycle
nitrogen--rather than sending them in bags to the landfill.
You don't have to grow a foot-high meadow to get good
results. Just adding an inch will give most lawns a real boost.
4. Water Deeply But Not Too Often
Watering properly will help your lawn grow deep roots that
make it stronger and less vulnerable to drought. Most lawns are
watered too often but with too little water. It's best to water
only when the lawn really needs it, and then to water slowly
and deeply. This trains the grass roots down. Frequent shallow
watering trains the roots to stay near the surface, making the
lawn less able to find moisture during dry periods.
Every lawn's watering needs are unique: they depend on
local rainfall, the grass and soil type, and the general health
of the lawn. But even in very dry areas, no established home
lawn should require daily watering.
Try to water your lawn in a way that imitates a slow,
soaking rain, by using trickle irrigation, soaker hoses, or
other water-conserving methods. It's also best to water in the
early morning, especially during hot summer months, to reduce
evaporation. Apply about an inch of water--enough that it soaks
6-8 inches into the soil. Then let the lawn dry out thoroughly
before watering it again.
The best rule is to water only when the lawn begins to
wilt from dryness--when the color dulls and footprints stay
compressed for more than a few seconds.
5. Correct Thatch Build-Up
All grass forms a layer of dead plant material, known as
thatch, between the grass blades and the soil. When thatch gets
too thick--deeper than one-half inch--it prevents water and
nutrients from penetrating to the soil and grass roots. Some
grasses tend to form a thick layer of thatch. Overuse of
fertilizer can also create a heavy layer of thatch.
You can reduce thatch by raking the lawn or using a
machine that slices through the thatch layer to break it up.
Sprinkling a thin layer of topsoil or compost over the lawn
will also help.
In a healthy lawn, microorganisms and earthworms help keep
the thatch layer in balance by decomposing it and releasing the
nutrients into the soil.
6. Set Realistic Goals
Setting realistic goals will allow you to conduct an
environmentally sensible lawn care program. It's probably not
necessary to aim for putting-green perfection. Did you know
that a lawn with 15 percent weeds can look practically
weed-free to the average observer? Even a healthy lawn is
likely to have some weeds or insect pests. But it will also
have beneficial insects and other organisms that help keep
pests under control.
Also realize that grass just can't grow well in certain
spots. Why fight a losing battle with your lawn, when you have
other options? At the base of a tree, for example, you might
have better luck with wood chips or shade-loving ornamental
plants like ivy, periwinkle, or pachysandra. If your climate is
very dry, consider converting some of your lawn to dry-garden
landscaping. It could save time, money, and water resources.
What Is IPM?
Integrated Pest Management is essentially common-sense
pest control. IPM is not a new concept; some forms of it have
been practiced for centuries.
IPM involves the carefully managed use of three different
pest control tactics--biological, cultural, and chemical--to
get the best long-term results with the least disruption of the
environment. Biological control means using natural enemies of
the pest, like lady bugs to control aphids. Cultural or
horticultural control involves the use of gardening methods,
like mowing high to shade out weeds. Chemical control involves
the judicious use of pesticides.
IPM is a highly effective approach that minimizes the use
of pesticides and maximizes the use of natural processes. Lawn
care professionals who use IPM should have a sophisticated
understanding of the ecosystem of your turf and the available
pest control tactics. Home gardeners can also practice IPM by
following the steps outlined in this brochure.
Tips For Using Pesticides
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